Egon Schiele and Český Krumlov: A Captivating Journey Through Beauty and Suffering

Historic Český Krumlov has captivated many artists over the years with its stunning charm and distinct position along the winding Vltava River. One of the most renowned figures associated with its beauty is the famous Austrian artist Egon Schiele (1890-1918). Known for his vivid portrayals of human fragility and decadence, Schiele experienced Český Krumlov during one of the most intense periods of his life, marking it as a site of both profound creativity and significant public criticism. This town, which was his mother’s hometown, served not just as a picturesque setting but as a vital piece of both his personal and artistic journey. Today, you can visit the Egon Schiele Art Centre located in the beautiful former Renaissance Town Brewery complex in the heart of Český Krumlov. This sophisticated venue hosts a sequence of impressive exhibitions across its extensive exhibition spaces. In addition to the permanent exhibition focusing on Schiele’s life and work, it provides ample studios and apartments for young artists from around the globe to study and create, along with a museum shop and Egon Café. There’s even a special Writer’s Suite!

The quest for identity: a child prodigy with a dark edge

Egon Schiele was born in 1890 in Tulln, Austria, to a father who worked as a railway stationmaster. Even as a child, Egon showed remarkable artistic ability and a vivid visual imagination. However, his life took a downward turn at the age of fourteen when his father passed away. His mother, Mary, who hailed from Český Krumlov, tried to guide him toward a more practical career, but he was determined to pursue painting. At just sixteen, in 1906, he was accepted into the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna, an institution known for its strict adherence to academic methods and formal techniques. However, Schiele quickly realized that such conventions didn’t resonate with him; he yearned for authentic expression rather than mere perfection. His path would soon intertwine with that of Gustav Klimt, who recognized Schiele’s unique talent. Klimt not only offered him financial aid but also introduced him to the realms of Viennese Art Nouveau.

Nevertheless, Schiele soon distanced himself from his mentor. Unlike Klimt’s flowery and sensual art, he turned to a more unfiltered and raw expression of the human experience. Between 1909 and 1910, he formed The New Art Group (Neue Kunstgruppe), alongside his contemporaries, establishing themselves as bold voices for the upcoming generation of artists. He collaborated with Josef Hoffmann, who was the founder of the Wiener Werkstätte, and took part in exhibitions across galleries in Austria and Germany. His creations—featuring nudes of children, unsettling self-portraits, and contorted figures—ignited both controversy and fascination, similar to the works of Oskar Kokoschka. Critics often branded him a purveyor of pornography, yet collectors eagerly sought out his art. However, Schiele found himself trapped in a cyclical struggle: he longed to escape Vienna’s oppressive atmosphere, ultimately seeking refuge in Český Krumlov.

From Vienna to Krumlov: a journey to light and quiet

In May 1910, Egon Schiele departed from Vienna, where he had established himself as an outstanding draughtsman yet felt stifled by the conservative academic framework. He relocated to southern Bohemia, to the town he knew from his mother’s tales, Český Krumlov. The small town by the Vltava River inspired him with its narrow streets and historical buildings; he often sought out unique perspectives from the hills and towers surrounding the area for his art. Although he could not rely on selling enough work in this smaller town to sustain himself, Krumlov transformed into a delightful sanctuary for him. Together with fellow artist Erwin Osen and his later brother-in-law Anton Peschka, he discovered an environment where creativity could flourish. They rented a space in a building on Masná Street, number 133. Schiele spent his days sketching in nature, exploring narrow lanes, and painting the town from both common and uncommon viewpoints, creating many of his most striking artworks. Primarily, he focused on drawing human figures, often depicting young girls in their natural state, unembellished and candid. This art was shocking to some.

Conflict with the town: when art defies societal boundaries

While Český Krumlov and its picturesque landscapes became a paradise for Schiele, the local residents were less than pleased with his presence. Schiele sparked controversy with his unconventional mannerisms. For instance, at the popular café Fink, located at the intersection of Latran and Brewery Street, he allegedly offended the locals by propping his feet on the table while sketching risqué images on beer coasters.

The garden house along the Vltava River, where Schiele lived and created alongside his muse and partner, Wally Neužilová, also became a target for gossip. Wally, who started as a model for Gustav Klimt, was part of a whirlwind of suspicion involving young girls, often underage, as well as the stark nudity and differences in lifestyles that Schiele depicted. Tensions escalated, leading to accusations against Schiele for indecency and the promotion of pornography, which eventually forced him to leave the town due to his extravagant lifestyle.

Egon Schiele Art Centre: the return of the lost son

Although Schiele spent fewer than two years in Český Krumlov, he left behind a lasting legacy. He created dozens of watercolors, drawings, and oil paintings depicting the town in an unromantic and raw manner, characterized by sharp lines, distorted perspectives, and a striking tension between form and emptiness. His local portraits and nudes, featuring thin bodies with prominent bones that seem to gaze inward, form a particularly poignant subset of his work.

Krumlov was a pivotal turning point for Schiele. He stepped away from the decorative style of Klimt’s influence and ventured into making deeply personal art—authentic, raw, and painfully honest. Many pieces from his time in Krumlov have become iconic in his body of work. Moreover, Český Krumlov hasn’t forgotten its exceptional “exile.” In 1993, they established the Egon Schiele Art Centre, which has gained international recognition and attracts many visitors each year. It is set within an extensive array of Baroque buildings on Široká Street. The permanent exhibition dedicated to Schiele showcases reproductions of his art, letters, sketches, personal documents, and modern photographs. Visitors can also delve into his diaries, discover his relationship with Wally, and learn about the dramatic circumstances surrounding his departure from the town. In addition to year-round exhibitions of drawings and watercolors, there are also displays about the artist’s life, featuring custom-designed furniture by Schiele, a death mask, and his only sculpture. The Centre also frequently holds exhibitions of contemporary artists, connecting Schiele’s legacy with the modern art scene.

How to Trace Egon’s Path?

Interested in walking in Egon Schiele’s footsteps? We have included some authentic stops in Krumlov for you to explore on Kudy z nudy!

• • Want to compare the current look of Krumlov’s streets and corners with their artistic representation? Besides the Egon Schiele Art Centre, you can also visit the Museum Fotoateliér Seidel. In the photographs by Josef Seidel (1859-1935), you can see Krumlov as Schiele experienced it. Josef Seidel also captured Schiele’s sister Melanie.

• • In May 1911, Schiele moved into the garden house along the Vltava River with his partner Wally Neužilova. Here, he created works inspired by the city and its themes, including the much-discussed portraits and nudes. The refurbished studio is open to the public in the summer, and the house also features a café offering refreshments.

• • Schiele occasionally returned to Krumlov, his town by the Blue River, where he would transform sketches into large paintings back in his Vienna studio. For his brief visits, he often chose inns near Vienna (now the Bellevue Hotel) or the At the Golden Angel (now known as Hotel Zlatý anděl).

• • The building at No. 133 on Masná Street, where Schiele had his first studio, is now an unassuming residence but holds a remarkable history. It’s also located just a short distance from his mother’s birthplace: Marie Schiele, née Soukup (1861-1935) can be found at number 111 on Parkán Street.

• • Schiele was often inspired by the views from Perspectives beyond the castle gate, situated across from the castle garden. From this vantage point, he could gaze upon the rooftops of Krumlov and the tower of Krumlov Castle, which features prominently in many of his paintings.