Beyond the Bars: Escaping the Monotony of Prisons, Penitentiaries, and Lock-Ups

The dungeon of nations stands in Brno

No other prisons have quite matched the infamous reputation of Špilberk, which is known as one of the most notorious prisons in the Habsburg Monarchy, gaining fame across Europe in the 18th and 19th centuries. By 1858, it was officially closed as a prison, transitioning to a barracks for the Austrian military. Nevertheless, the harsh legacy of Brno Şpilberk endures; it is well-known that among those transferred to serve their sentences elsewhere was the notorious “old rascal” Babinský, also known as Venca of Pokratice. Another notable figure imprisoned here was Tomas Grasel, the father of the far more famous “thug” Jan Jiří. The prominent prisoner who died within these walls was the leader of the Pandurs , Baron Franz Trenck. These individuals, along with many political prisoners from across the empire, are remembered at the Brno City Museum and its permanent exhibition, The Dungeon of Nations, located on the ground floor of the north wing of the castle, which connects to the underground casemates. The dungeon was created during the reign of Joseph II for the most serious offenders, including assassins. In the dark, windowless dungeons where convicts were forced to survive on bread and water, chained to the walls, it was common for them to last only a few weeks or months. The barracks can be visited daily from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.. A guided tour is highly recommended!

Unicovo’s closet

Another grim location is The Prison Museum in Unicov, a building constructed in the 16th century that remained in use until 1945. The uniquely decorated walls of the cells tell stories of the many generations of prisoners who spent time here, including a Russian prisoner of war and a downed American pilot in 1944. The exhibition explores the justice system and prison life from the Middle Ages to the mid-20th century. Highlights of the display include original and replica torture devices, shackles, prayer and work books, police handcuffs, Gendarmerie period uniforms, sabres, bayonets, as well as military badges and decorations for gendarmes, and registration cards of prostitutes. You can also see the courtyard where inmates were allowed to walk under supervision, the prison chapel, and several of the cells inhabited by unwilling residents. The cellblock is open year-round on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays; during the summer holidays, it operates every day except Mondays.

Cejl – a prison where executions were carried out

There is a grim history associated with the former orphanage, which later became a penitentiary and ultimately a regional prison in Brno at Cejl. The foundation stone was laid in 1772, and during the 20th century, it witnessed the execution of political opponents opposing both Nazism and Communism. Its function as a prison lasted until the mid-1950s, when the Brno-Bohunice prison opened. Visitors can see the courtyard, the former workhouse, the death cells, and the prison chapel. Walking through these areas can definitely give you chills… Tours are generally conducted on Saturday afternoons, and tickets can be purchased online through the Tourist Information Centre.

Chatlava in Nová Bystřice and Grasel’s trails

Come and explore what the actual closet was like in 1850. Learn about the history of the building that used to serve as a county courthouse or hear the chilling true story about the murdered Maria Gabler. The Prison in Nová Bystřice offers an interesting look at the prison system during the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries, housed in a Renaissance building that was formerly the town hall and district court, established in 1636. This building functioned intermittently for various town officials, including the mayor and the town crier, until it closed its doors in 1850. For various offenses, including misdemeanours and serious crimes, individuals were held here temporarily during their investigations or until their cases reached higher courts, like that of Henry Gabler of Rottal back in 1875. Additionally, don’t overlook that Bohemian Canada was famously connected to the notorious Johann Grassel, a bold leader of a robbery gang feared throughout Austria-Hungary. One of his trails runs close to Nová Bystřice; he was arrested in 1816 in Mörtersdorf, Austria.

Other lock-ups and execution rooms

• • In the building of the historic cloakroom in Česká Lípa, there’s a museum showcasing the history of using caves and rock overhangs from prehistoric times to today. Other exhibitions focus on archaeology and local pottery production, and the prison section highlights the history of the lock-up, the prison system, and law enforcement in the city. It’s open during high season from April until the end of October.

• • Execution chambers, which have a somewhat less dark reputation than lock-ups and prisons, were simply homes for the chief executioners. However, they still carry a certain eerie atmosphere, inspiring various stories to emerge from their walls. One of the few remaining executioner dwellings can be found in Brandýs nad Labem, preserved and authentic.

• • Exhibits at the Regional Museum Prague-East occupy a former executioner’s house and, as expected, focus on the history of execution laws and the execution profession. A small torture chamber is also part of this insightful display. It’s open on weekends from April through the end of September.

• • The execution chamber in Odry, which operated as the town prison, now houses the Museum of Municipal Law. It’s always open on Saturdays and Wednesdays.

• • In Jeseník, another executioner’s house exists, though it is said the executioner only lived there in legend. Today, this charming house functions as the location for an information center that features a unique multimedia exhibition about the Principality of Nisza in Poland.