Serene Hideaways of the Kladsko Borderlands

Wanderings in the Jestřebí Mountains

Are you familiar with the Jestřebí hory? It’s a forested area, about 19 kilometers long, extending east to west between the Metuje river valley near Hronova and the Petříkovický creek valley. The highest peak, Žaltman, offers a stunning view of the landscape. One of the best hiking paths is the Panská cesta ridge trail, which goes from Odolov (starting at Pub U Lotranda) to Paseky (where you can find Jestřebí bouda or the Řehačka and Čepelka chalets). This trail is roughly 12 kilometers long and is easy to hike.

The region showcases a unique natural wealth, alongside various historical and cultural sites that offer long-distance views. The densely wooded ridge of the Jestřebí Mountains is flanked by the Krkonoše Mountains, the Crow Mountains, and the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks. You can also spot Zvičina, Trosky, Ještěd, and the surroundings of Hradec Králové over the Rozkoš water reservoir. Among the natural wonders are the Christopher Stones, located near Odolov, which are scientifically referred to as araukarity. These are fossilized tree trunks from the prehistoric era, remnants of cordaites, giant trees that no longer exist and typically grew in swampy environments (these trees are linked to the creation of coal) or primitive conifers.

Along the entire length of the Jestřebí hory ridge is a defensive line of bunkers from World War II, featuring several smaller infantry huts, some of which have been restored.

Rock cities where you will be alone

While the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks are quite popular (make sure to book in advance, especially during summer), other rock formations in the Kladsko Borderlands are often overlooked by tourists, although they are incredible rock labyrinths featuring many stunning and distinctive geological shapes. Take, for example, the Ostaš rock town located near Žďár nad Metují. The rocky areas in Ostaš can be accessed via two hiking trails that take you through the Upper and Lower labyrinth. During wartime, locals would seek refuge among these rocks, as indicated by the name of a 30-meter-long crevice in the rock, the Slough of the Czech Brothers. Along your journey, you may find the Devil’s Car, Bears, or Otter Gate. After navigating through the rock maze, you will arrive at the mountain’s summit, where you can enjoy the view from the Frýdlanská and Krtička lookout points, providing a beautiful view of the Giant Mountains and the Broumov Walls.
Cat Rocks can be seen on the green trail below Ostaš. In the 18th century, wild cats roamed this area, which led to the naming of this entire complex of rock formations. Though smaller in comparison to Ostaš, Kočičí Rocks features fascinating sandstone shapes like rock towers, pillars, and ridges, along with some pseudo-karst caves. The rock town sits on a relatively long and narrow plateau known as Cat’s Back. The largest peak of Kočičí Rocks is a formation called Kočičí hrádek, which hides inside a lovely network of passageways, caves, and crevices.
Above the village of Slavný, rock formations known as stone or rock mushrooms can be found on the Broumov Walls ridge. They were shaped through erosion affecting different sandstone layers that have varying resistance to weather elements (such as water, humidity, and drastic temperature changes). This means that a firmer hat forms on softer ground. You can reach these mushrooms from the village Slavný by following a yellow hiking path to the crossroads above Slavný, then continue along a red trail (a total distance of about 1.5 kilometers). While all the mushroom formations are certainly worth seeing, the most beautiful ones are hidden off the marked paths deep in the woods.
Have you ever heard of the Jirásek Rocks? Surprisingly, they are a lesser-known section of the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks, situated near Teplice nad Metují. These rocks are named after the settlement and the ruins of the castle Skály, where author Alois Jirásek set the story of his novel of the same name.

The tallest peak of the Broumov Walls is the Božanovský Špičák, rising to 773 meters. The path to this peak leads you through a rock labyrinth filled with fascinating formations, many of which have received names from animals, hence these rocks are sometimes referred to as the “Stone Zoo”. In the rock town below Špičák, you can identify formations like a cat, a crow, and a duck or even a stone hobby. The circular hiking route from Slavný to Božanovský Špičák is about 10 kilometers long.

Beautiful trips along rivers and streams

The most beautiful walks around babbling rivers and streams can be found near Nové Město nad Metují. Near the Bohdašínský brook, explore the Klopotovské údolí, where you’ll come across a wildlife preserve filled with tame woodland animals at the beginning. Children will have fun with interactive activities that let them try jumping comparisons against animals, check out various types of wood, and discover that the forest is like a giant animal home.
The valley of Olesenka is traversed by a red-marked trail stretching from Nový Hrádek to Nové Město nad Metují, known as Jirásekova cesta. The trail is about 5.5 kilometers long and leads up to Pekel, where it meets the Metují River. This is a lovely path along the Olešenka river, winding through a secluded forest valley surrounded by small rocks. Notably, the 4035 cycling route runs alongside it as well.

At the point where the Olesenka and Metuje rivers join is another local phenomenon called Hell Valley. This picturesque canyon has been a popular hiking destination since the 19th century, with several bike paths leading from it. Many visitors enjoy the hospitality of Barton’s Hut, a charming restaurant designed in the early 20th century by famous architect Dušan Jurkovič. Follow the yellow hiking trail alongside the clear river, between steep slopes dotted with beech forests and numerous rocks, up to Nové Město (around 7 kilometers). In spring, autumn, or after rain, this section is also popular with paddlers who seek out the thrilling local “hellish” rapids.

Libchyně valley is formed by the Libchyňský Brook, which begins above Mezilesí at around 520 meters in altitude. After flowing about 7 kilometers, it joins the Metuje River near the Rezecký Bridge in Nové Město. A green hiking path guides you through this charming wooded valley, sometimes leading you along the left bank, and other times along the right. Approximately five crossings of the stream are required on wooden bridges.

Castles and chateaux of the Kladsko Borderlands

The Kladsko Borderlands has many castles waiting to be explored. One such place is the castle in Nové Město nad Metují, which has been the home of the Barton family from Dobenín since 1908. You can take part in two different guided tours at the castle, as well as enjoy a lovely stroll through its park. The garden and the castle building were last renovated by architect Dušan Jurkovič between 1909 and 1915.
The Náchod Castle stands prominently as you enter the town. It boasts a complex of five courtyards and creates a fascinating atmosphere. This castle features three separate guided tours. Notably, it is also home to the largest bear sanctuary in Bohemia, where bears named Ludvík and Dáša currently reside.
The Empire-style Ratibořice Castle is particularly famous as the summer home of Kateřina Vilemína, Duchess Zaháňská. This humble country estate was a gathering place for politicians and statesmen during the Napoleonic Wars, influencing Europe’s organization for many years.
One of the oldest historical sites in East Bohemia is Vízmburk Castle, often called Czech Pompeii. This powerful castle was as formidable as royal castles and holds significance as one of the earliest settlements in East Bohemia. Neighboring regions like Silesia and Lusatia were so intimidated by it that they purchased it from its owners rather than allow it to be destroyed.

Museums, forts and other places of interest

Visiting the Merkur Model Kit Museum in Police nad Metují will give you insights into both the history and present of this unique toy. The origins of toy production here trace back to 1920 when Mr. Jaroslav Vancl established the company Inventor, which made the eponymous kit. At the museum, you can see the most extensive structure built from this kit, known as “Steel City“, crafted by builder Jiří Mládek and inspired by Jules Verne’s novel. The museum features a large Merkur “O” track on a 1:45 scale, representative versions of the Petřín lookout tower, and other intriguing buildings. Plus, there’s a space for your creativity – you can use your imagination and construct your own machines!

The modern Exposition about Božena Němcová in Česká Skalica showcases a variety of artifacts from the well-known writer, including furniture, paintings, several glass and porcelain items, and some of her personal belongings – for instance, the fan from the Slavic Ball in Vienna, little scrapbooks in which she noted down observations from her travels, or a unique colored glass paperweight. The museum has also designed a display of a room reflecting how it might have looked during the Biedermeier period, featuring period glass and porcelain from its collection, as well as dresses worn by women of that time. Among the exhibits, you’ll find various editions of her stories along with fairy tales and short stories written by Božena Němcová, and in the last two rooms, a filmography and insights into her work in theater, poetry, prose, and music.

Dobrošov Artillery Fortress has gone through significant renovations. The current structure is about three times larger than it used to be. A spacious screening room has been added, along with a modern audiovisual exhibit. Additionally, there is a new visitor center that offers refreshments, restrooms, and a space for lectures. The fortress was established in September 1937 to defend the Republic against Nazi Germany, joining other border fortifications. However, it was not finished before the close of 1938 following the Munich Agreement that ceded parts of Czechoslovakia’s territory to Germany.