From Basics to Extravagance: Escaping the Mundane!

Torches flicker on the walls, while in the castle kitchen, wood crackles in the fireplace and the imperial board bends beneath the weight of venison (served with antlers for flair!), fish and sweets. The inviting aroma of cinnamon and almonds fills the air, as copper pots simmer with sweet porridge. The Emperor Charles IV has a particular love for bread and butter, but his all-time favorite dish is definitely present at his meals – pike with almond stuffing. There’s one additional treat you might expect to find in France or Italy: truffles. They were mentioned in Bohemia as early as the 14th century, before they were noted anywhere else in Christian Europe..

Truffles: the Czech contribution to the history of world gastronomy

Few would expect Czechs to have played a role in the history of one of the world’s most luxurious delicacies – truffles. The first mention of truffles, those enigmatic fungi that later became a symbol of French and Italian cuisine, can be found in Master Claret’s Glossary from 1359-1365. The author of this work was Bartholomew of Chlumec (c. 1320-1370), a schoolmaster at St. Vitus Cathedral and a favorite of Charles IV, along with Arnost of Pardubice. In the section titled About strawberries and mushrooms, dozens of mushroom types were noted, including Cossacks, toadstools, and diatoms, along with a peculiar mushroom called “undo lanyss.” This source indicates that truffles were seen as a familiar type of mushroom in Bohemia during that time. Additionally, Master Claret’s Glossary is now acknowledged as the earliest documented reference to truffles in Christian Europe!

Unique Czech word truffle

Truffles are not the only unexpected culinary delight, but also Czech lovers. The Czech word for truffle, “truffle,” is distinct and differs from other European names. While in France, it’s called truffe, and in Italy, it’s known as tartufo, the Czechs use their own unique name. It likely comes from the observation of nature. Our ancestors found truffles in the soil disturbed by forest animals under the trees. The sight of ropes digging up the earth inspired the charming Czech name ‘truffle.’ Bohuslav Balbín later wrote about this method of searching.
The understanding of truffles in the Czech lands appears to have developed independently of the rest of Europe. This highlights the significance of the reference in Claret’s Glossary—the Czech lands have thus unexpectedly carved a niche in European culinary history.
As for the curious word “undo,” it does not relate to the Latin title for truffles, which is tuber. However, that term wasn’t established until the 19th century, so Klaret wouldn’t have been familiar with it. The word likely stems from the term undossis, which means bumpy, describing the uneven texture of a sponge.

Charles IV and venison: a passion and a symbol of power

Charles IV enjoyed venison not just as a meal, but it was also a true passion. His table was filled with quails, rabbits, venison, and smoked boar. For the nobility of medieval times, game meat was a symbol of wealth and power. A lavish spread was incomplete without it.
The Emperor also loved hunting, often in the woods near Karlštejn. According to legend, during one hunting trip in the forests surrounding Loket, he discovered hot springs, which eventually led to the establishment of the spa town of Karlovy Vary.

Spices from afar

Medieval cuisine was aromatic and notably spicy. Charles IV delighted in dishes seasoned with cinnamon and white ginger, with other spices including nuts and fruits. The common people opted for simpler flavors, such as mustard seeds or saffron. Spices were even used to flavor everyday meals like varmuze, kucmoch, or netyas, which you wouldn’t find in royal banquet halls. The use of spices added vibrancy, taste, and meaning – at times, they even masked the fact that the meat was not completely fresh.
Thanks to his diverse background and four wives from various parts of Europe – Luxembourg, Poland, France and Germany – Charles IV sampled a wide array of specialties. He himself brought back a fondness for sweets from Italy and a love of wine from France. His dining table can be seen as a precursor to today’s “international cuisine.”

Bread and butter, the king’s weakness

While the Middle Ages were filled with feasts and extraordinary flavors, Charles IV’s biggest weakness was simply a slice of bread with butter. The monarch relished white loaves specially made to fit perfectly in his hand, slathered with butter so thickly it was “spread on his finger.” Butter was a rare luxury at the time, adding to his appreciation of it.

The fast that saved a life

Faith played a significant role in diet, along with individual preferences. Feasting was seen as gluttonous and sinful. As a devout Christian, Charles IV often fasted, and this practice once saved his life. In 1331, while he was still a young nobleman in Paris, an assassin attempted to poison his breakfast. The future emperor avoided death because he was fasting before attending mass. Many of his courtiers were not as lucky, leading the young nobleman to believe he was protected by a higher power.
During Lent, people were allowed to eat fish. Charles IV enjoyed them as well. Near Karlštejn, he had a large vat made for breeding fish. This is where pike that eventually graced the Emperor’s table with almond stuffing were raised. His preferred beverage was wine, which he not only enjoyed drinking but also actively promoted its production – after all, he was the one who brought grapevines from France to Bohemia, setting the stage for Czech winemaking.
Today, we can take inspiration from medieval recipes and truffle tales: gastronomy and gourmet tourism have always meant more than just food. It’s a cultural expression, a sign of authority, and a bridge between nations. Few would have guessed that the Czech lands would earn a spot in the annals of European cuisine, not just as the birthplace of wine or venison feasts, but also as the location where truffles were first documented in writing.

Truffle epilogue: from the Middle Ages to the present

In the truffle world, everything begins and ends with mycelium – mycelia. This is the crucial player in today’s narrative. The mycelium of the Burgundy truffle is the central focus of the Czech Truffle Research Laboratory, established in the Czech Republic in 2017, recognized as the only one of its kind in Central Europe. The lab is among the leading facilities globally, using various innovative technologies. They cultivate genetically tested seedlings that they are certain can yield truffles. Before planting, they ensure the soil is free from harmful substances, and also treat the seedlings with a microbiological solution. This greatly enhances the likelihood of the truffle mycelium thriving and adapting to its new environment.
Just as truffles surprised Czech tables in the 14th century, they are now writing their story again—this time with a scientific approach and a focus on the future.