Get Lost the Right Way: A Journey Through Prague’s Hidden Villages and Urban Wilds

You might be familiar with the classic Prague dialogue: “I live in Prague…” – “Where?” – “Um… like… near the metro.” This is because Prague has a unique ability: even a native Prague resident sometimes realizes that what they thought was “almost the center” or a neighborhood they know inside out is actually a completely different city district, a different story, and sometimes even a former village with its own square.
To clarify things once and for all (or at least until the next debate on the tram), we’ve put together on Kudy z nudy a guide to Prague’s neighborhoods and city parts – detailing how they came to be in today’s Prague. Don’t expect a boring list: for each area, you’ll find tips on where to take a stroll, where to look for the old core, and where you might encounter hidden passages, industrial sites, villas, colonies, or a bit of countryside tucked just around the corner. Just choose a direction and go: Prague is most fun when you can “get lost” in it for a bit in the right way.

How Prague was Founded and Grew into Its Current Shape

On the morning of February 12, 1784, the people of Prague woke up to a completely different city than the one they had known until midnight. The joining of four independent royal cities (Old Town, New Town, Little Side, Hradčany) resulted in the creation of the Royal Capital City of Prague on February 12, 1784. The center of Prague’s municipal government became the Old Town Hall located at Old Town Square, while the New Town Hall at Charles Square became a court. At that time, the city covered an area of 725 hectares and had 76,000 inhabitants.

In the 19th century, Prague absorbed The Jewish Town, renamed Josefov, as well as Vyšehrad, Holešovice, and Bubny. In the first year of the 20th century, the neighborhood of Libeň was added. At that time, Prague covered 21 square kilometers and had approximately 233,000 residents.

The name Royal Capital City of Prague was used until 1922, when the so-called Greater Prague was established. In January 1922, an additional 37 municipalities or parts of municipalities were incorporated into Prague. Alphabetically, these were Bohnice, Braník, Břevnov, Bubeneč, Dejvice, Hloubětín, Hlubočepy, Hodkovičky, Hostivař, Hrdlořezy, Malá Chuchle, Jinonice, Karlín, Kobylisy, Košíře, Krč, Liboc, Malešice, Michle, Motol, Nusle, Podolí, Prosek, Radlice, Sedlec, Smíchov, Strašnice, Střešovice, Střížkov, Troja, Veleslavín, Royal Vinohrady, Vokovice, Vršovice, Vysočany, Záběhlice, Zátiší, and Žižkov. The city was then divided into 19 districts, overseen by a one-hundred-member central council and a city council headed by Mayor Karel Baxo. At that time, Prague’s population was 676,000, and it spanned an area of nearly 172 square kilometers. From that point onwards, the city was officially known as The Capital City of Prague.

The Roman numerals in the names of Prague’s parts are not some confusing history puzzle. They indicate how Prague gradually formed from smaller towns, villages, and settlements – from the historical core to the outskirts. These are not today’s city districts; rather, they represent a historical division, and now we will guide you through Prague step by step, area by area.

Prague I to V – Old Town, New Town, Little Side, Hradčany, and Josefov

The original Royal Capital City has been connecting these five districts since 1784. Today, the city district of Prague 1 is divided into five parts using Roman numerals: Old Town, New Town, Little Side, Hradčany, and Josefov. Here you will find world-famous landmarks and city nooks, including Prague Castle, Nový Svět, Old Town Square with the Astronomical Clock, the Jewish Quarter, Charles Bridge, Kampa, Lesser Town Square, and many other places that don’t require further introduction.

Prague VI and VII – Vyšehrad, Holešovice, and Bubny

The city parts of Vyšehrad (now part of Prague 2), Holešovice, and Bubny (now Prague 7) were integrated into Prague in 1884. The main attraction in Vyšehrad is the Basilica of St. Peter and Paul and the Slavín cemetery, where many Czech individuals are laid to rest. For those willing to take a substantial walk around the old fortress, narrow and dark passages in the original bastions, such as those between Lumírova Street and U Podolského Sanatoria, may surprise you. The beautiful Cihelná Gate, which ends Vratislavova Street, is also noteworthy. Below Vyšehrad, you can find a number of cubist villas and apartment buildings.

The face of Holešovice was significantly transformed by redevelopment from the late 1950s to the early 1980s. Today, Holešovice is a “bohemian” district filled with a network of intertwined galleries, museums, theaters, cafes, restaurants, music clubs, creative studios, and hybrid cultural spaces. The street Argentinská and the train station Prague-Bubny divide Holešovice into two parts. The eastern side of Holešovice is close to the Vltava River, housing the largest port in Prague (and the largest on the Vltava River), beautiful modern architecture, and old industrial buildings brimming with character.

Bubny used to be a village located north of Prague’s center. Its housing core was situated on the northern bank of the Vltava at the level of Štvanice Island, at the site of today’s Nábřeží Kapitána Jaroše. A modern landmark here is the Shoah Memorial at Bubny train station, which commemorates the Jewish transports organized from this station during World War II.

Prague VIII – Libeň, Střížkov, Kobylisy, Troja, and Bohnice

Libeň was considered an industrial suburb of Prague during the First Republic. However, its small houses, courtyards, and factory buildings are increasingly being replaced by modern developments. Interestingly, Libeň was the last neighborhood to be incorporated into Prague before the establishment of Czechoslovakia in 1901. You can explore the old corners of Libeň, such as in Labuťka, in the emergency colonies of Na Kotlasce and Na Hájku, or in the alley called Na hrázi, a favorite of Bohumil Hrabal. A gem of Libeň is the Park Podviní or the Rococo castle.

For a glimpse into the past of Střížkov, visit the notable Střížkovský dvůr, a large Baroque estate currently home to Restaurace Svatojánský Dvůr. You may also be surprised by the village conservation area of Old Bohnice along Bohnická Street, where you can find a village square, a richly decorated Baroque farmstead, and the Church of St. Peter and Paul.

In Kobylisy, enjoy a stroll through the beautiful Čimický forest, which leads you to the gates of the Troja Botanical Garden on K Pazderkám Street. The name of the region Troja originally referred only to the castle built between 1683-1692; the settlement was given this name only in the 18th century. Fishermen once lived here, and there was a blacksmith, with agricultural estates surrounded by vineyards, solitary villas, and houses. In 1922, land in Troja was donated by the big farmer Alois Svoboda, who hoped a zoo would be built there.

Prague IX – Vysočany, Prosek, and Hloubětín

Several former working-class and factory settlements have transformed into pleasant city neighborhoods. The most valuable historic site in today’s Prague 9 is the three-nave Romanesque basilica of St. Václav in Prosek, which legend says was founded by Boleslav I in 970. The modern highlight of Vysočany is the O2 Arena, a venue for many sports and cultural events. A trail called Vysočany–Prosek–Střížkov will introduce you to many interesting corners, taking you through city streets and the fascinating Prosecké cliffs with a number of inaccessible underground spaces that were home to poor working-class families during the First Republic.

Prague X – Karlín

Karlín was founded in 1817 and named in honor of the wife of Emperor Francis I, Karolína Augusta. The first Prague gas works was built here in 1847, supplying gas for 200 lamps in the city center. After the demolition of city walls in the 1870s, the land where Karlín is located became some of the cheapest in the city. This led to the establishment of numerous industrial facilities and residential buildings. The most famous historic landmark in Karlín is the Church of St. Cyril and Methodius at Karlín Square, inaugurated to celebrate the millennium of the arrival of the Slavic missionaries to Moravia. The spirit of old Karlín can be felt in the charming Lyčkovo náměstí, which resembles a French park. There is also a remarkable Art Nouveau building of an elementary school from 1904 that you can’t miss. We should also mention the Karlín Invalidovna, an extensive Baroque structure built between 1731 and 1737 for war veterans.

Prague XI – Žižkov, Hrdlořezy, and Malešice

The distinctive Prague district Žižkov was historically a neighborhood of poorer residents of Prague. Builder Karel Hartig constructed quickly and cheaply low-quality houses here, even using dirt from excavations… Although mainly a residential area, small-scale industrial production also emerged here, including a capsule factory, a gasworks, and other small businesses. The residents were always proud of their neighborhood, referring to it as the Republic of Žižkov, a designation also indicated on the border houses of the district. For the spirit of true Žižkov, venture into the tangle of streets near Havlíčkovo náměstí, by the Church of St. Prokop, and surely don’t forget to visit the secret Rajská zahrada (Paradise Garden) with its water cascades, turtle, and breathtaking views.
The frightfully named district Hrdlořezy takes its name from the murder of a nobleman named Kapr of Kaprštejna, whose throat was cut by his murderer and rival in love, Adam Zapský of Zap, at a local spring. After the battle at White Mountain, Kapr acquired the property of Mr. Zapský, which was another motivation for the horrifying act. He was subsequently caught and executed in the courtyard of Prague Castle. In the past, Hrdlořezy was a frequently used path from Prague to Kolín. The area’s complicated terrain made it an ideal hideout for robbers and highwaymen, who exploited it to ambush merchant carts as well as noble and bourgeois carriages… The modest remnants of the original historical buildings are represented by a bell tower on Hrdlořezy Street and a fruit orchard called Třešňovka.
In 1922, when Malešice became part of Prague XI, it had about 1,400 inhabitants. It was an outlying district that retained its village character until the end of the 1950s when the construction of prefabricated apartment buildings for thousands of people began. You can explore Malešice’s history through the Saint Joseph Educational Trail, and the botanical garden of SOŠ Malešice is also beautiful.

Prague XII – Royal Vinohrady

The name Vinohrady originated from the vineyards established on the orders of Charles IV after the founding of New Town. Over the years, these vineyards dwindled, and by the 18th century, various estates and summerhouses were present instead. In June 1849, the estates outside New Town were combined under a gubernatorial decree, creating the independent municipality of Vinohrady, roughly encompassing today’s Vinohrady and Žižkov, which was elevated to city status in 1879. Notably, this new municipality became the fourth largest in the Czech lands, so opulent construction in this still luxurious neighborhood followed. When walking through Vinohrady, make sure to stop at náměstí Míru with the Church of St. Ludmila, the National House, and the Vinohrad Theatre. Also beautiful are the Vinohrad Market, the water tower, Gröbova Villa in Havlíčkovy Sady, the outlook pavilion Mlíkárna in Riegrovy Sady, or Kotěrova villa.

Prague XIII – Vršovice, Záběhlice, Hostivař, and Strašnice

Vršovice is one of the oldest neighborhoods in the modern metropolis, with the first written mention dating back to 1088. The origin of the name remains unclear; it could derive from the significant family of the Vršovec or could relate to “vrš” – containers once used by local fishermen for catching fish. The year 1866 was significant for Vršovice when the residents finally got public clocks. In 1888, they even received electric trams. The oldest structures include the Church of St. Nicholas (built based on a chapel from the year 1000), Pod Stupni Street, and Smolenská Street.

Old Záběhlice rests in the Botič valley, and even after becoming part of Prague in 1922, it remained a true village. Due to its location in the valley with steep slopes, its rustic character has been preserved to this day. In the 1920s and 1930s, extensive neighborhoods of family houses emerged on the outskirts of Záběhlice, Spořilov and Zahradní Město. When you venture into Záběhlice, you can easily distinguish between the periods of construction. There’s the medieval section between the castle and the church, Růžový ostrov between the dam near the castle and Hamerský pond, a picturesque impoverished mini-settlement on the slopes with small houses called Upper and Lower Chaloups, and the western part along Záběhlická Street, mostly featuring first-republic apartment buildings. Historical structures are also present in Práče village, which has a castle, manor house, former brewery, and storage at the roadside.

A little further on, you can find the charming village conservation area of Stará Hostivař. It has preserved the central part of one of the oldest villages in Prague, featuring small buildings and several large farms in the Botič valley. Notable preserved landmarks include the Church of the Beheading of St. John the Baptist, Hořejší Mill, and Dolejší Mill or Švehlův Mill.

Strašnice does not derive its name from any spookiness but rather from the ancient nobleman Strašen. Thus it was a village of “the people of Strašen.” After joining Greater Prague in 1922, both Old and New Strašnice merged, leading to rapid development. The only preserved farm on the site of the medieval estate is Bečvářův statek at Starostrašnická no. 25/16, built in 1830 in a Classical style. A Historical Trail in Strašnice guides interested visitors; you can start it near the Strašnická metro station. Notable buildings in Strašnice include Trmal’s villa, the Strašnice crematorium, or the brother Čapek’s twin house.

Prague XIV – Nusle, Michle, Pankrác, Krč

Another unique district is Nusle, where grapevines were cultivated during Charles IV’s reign. In 1694, the Nusle brewery was founded, emerging from the reconstruction of an old mill from the 14th century, along with other additions. The brewery is currently under renovation, with plans to create new apartments in the historical space. The Nusle municipal conservation area lies around Bratří Synků square. Among the most valuable preserved landmarks are the Nusle Town Hall, the National House (now the Czech Savings Bank), the Church of St. Wenceslas, and numerous townhouses. Several original houses from the late 19th century remain on Jaromírova Street – specifically two low houses numbered 91/65 and 81/57, constructed in 1875. The first tram line on Nusle was introduced in 1914, connecting to the brewery from Vinohradské station. In 1925, a new Nusle Sokol Hall with a unique bowling alley was built, the largest of its kind in Prague. Also famous is the hardware store in the Art Nouveau building U Rouska, which few notice has frescoes by Mikoláš Aleš around its bay window.

Michle can also surprise you – here you can find ultra-modern glass architecture in Brumlovka, as well as rural development at the base of Tyršovy Hill and on U Michelský mill Street. An outright hidden gem is the garden colony Na Slatinách, where Cimraman’s mud baths can be found. Notable buildings include Kotěrova water tower from the year 1907.

Next to Nusle and Michle is Pankrác. The local name of this district comes from the patron of the local church, St. Pancras, a Roman martyr. The church is still standing today, located at the upper part of Sinkulova Street. Since the late 19th century, the name “Pankrác” has become synonymous with the Prague prison (construction no. 998), built between 1885 and 1889. On the other hand, modern structures are represented by the so-called “Prague Manhattan,” featuring contemporary skyscrapers on Pankrác Plain.

Today, the district of Krč used to be a small settlement with two fortresses and a few cottages in the medieval times. It’s surprising that this area is recognized as the site of the first written mention of cherries in our territory (from 1328). Even at the beginning of the 20th century, the local village character did not significantly change – residents built summer cottages here, away from the hustle of the big city. This idyl was shattered only by the construction of the Southern Connection road. However, you can still find the extensive Krč forest here, and at Thomayer Hospital, you may even spot muflons that have lived here freely for several decades.

Prague XV – Podolí, Braník, Hodkovičky, and Zátiší

In the district of Podolí, which stretches along the banks of the Vltava River and on the adjacent hills, you will find both old and modern villas, typical city blocks, and important public buildings. Podolí used to be a typical rural area with old cottages. These original homes were bought up by wealthy Prague residents looking to build villas close to the center yet “in nature.” You can see the oldest among them in quiet streets like Na Vápené, Pod Klaudiánkou, U Podolského hřbitova, Lopatecká, and Na Dolinách. Important “functional buildings” include the well-known maternity hospital, the Podolí waterworks, and the Podolí swimming pool. The picturesque Podolí port with yachts and the rowing island with a ferry add to the charm.

Braník symbolizes a unique Prague suburb, blending many charming features of both a big city and a smaller town. Historians suggest the district’s name derives from the word “braník,” which referred to a fortified hill. Among the most significant structures here are the former icehouses, where ice was stored during winter, harvested from the frozen Vltava. One of the most romantic streets, with bumpy cobblestones lined with low houses, is definitely Stará Cesta. A walk through the streets of Mezivrší, Nad Vinohradem, Branická, or Pod Vinohradem is sure to delight the heart.

Along with Podolí and Braník, Hodkovičky also joined Greater Prague. They can be divided into three parts: the lower part, where a few farms of the former village still exist; the upper part, which features interwar, post-war, and modern family houses; and Zátiší, which follows the valley of a stream and is adorned with lovely villas from the late 19th century.

Prague XVI – Smíchov, Radlice, Hlubočepy, and Malá Chuchle

Today, the district of Prague 5 is one of the largest in the city in terms of both area and population. During the First Republic, it was divided into two smaller units of originally independent municipalities, with Smíchov, Hlubočepy, and Radlice forming a separate area. In the period of early modernity, the northern part of today’s Smíchov area transformed into a recreational zone for prominent noble families, who built summer houses and villas with ornamental gardens there. The 19th century brought significant changes to Smíchov, turning it into an industrial neighborhood. Thanks to the numerous factory chimneys, Smíchov was often referred to as Prague’s Manchester. The flat parts of Smíchov became filled with continuous multi-story apartment buildings, giving the district its urban character. Modern architecture is represented by the new Anděl area, which features office buildings and shopping centers. Some of the most beautiful Smíchov landmarks include the neo-Renaissance Basilica of St. Wenceslas, the Kinský Summer Palace, and the former Bertramka vineyard estate. If you want to feel the spirit of the old times, take a stroll in the Malvazinky colony or on Na Václavce Street, where you’ll discover beautiful apartment villas.

Until its merger with Greater Prague, Radlice was a small village. Changes began in the early 1980s when construction of the metro required extensive reconstruction. Old Radlice was demolished, and in its place were built a bus terminal and a swimming pool. The only remnants of old Radlice are the chapel of St. John of Nepomuk and the Jewish cemetery heading towards Dívčí hrady.

Another nearby village was old Hlubočepy, which has remarkably preserved its rural character to this day. On one side, you have Prokop Valley, while the other side is lined with rocks where picturesque houses cling precariously. The atmosphere, reminiscent of “The Sinful People of the City of Prague,” is evident on streets like Pod Útesy, Ke Hřbitovu, Na Žvahově, or Pod Žvahovem. Above Hlubočepy runs the railway line of Prague’s Semmering. This includes two old stone viaducts which are protected as technical heritage sites. You’ll find a similar vibe up high on the rocks in Malá Chuchle by the Church of St. John of Nepomuk or in the narrow streets V Lázních, V Uličce, and Zbraslavská.

Prague XVII – Košíře, Motol, and Jinonice

Until the second half of the 19th century, Košíře remained just a small village amid vineyards. As industry began to develop in neighboring Smíchov, Košíře grew as a workers’ lodging area. Among the oldest locales is the Buďánka colony, built by laborers from nearby vineyards, workers from a sandstone quarry, and a local gallery as a social counterpoint to the wealthy estates. Buďánka was once a feared district where it was unwise to venture, even during the day. Smíchov writer Jakub Arbes placed sharp characters from his novella My Friend the Murderer here. In contrast, during the First Republic, a large villa suburb was created in Cibulka. One of the worst places to live in Prague at the time was the notorious area Na Popelkách, described by Karel Čapek in his book Pictures from Home in the short story Raid. Over time, the old Košíře was demolished due to renovations, making way for panel houses along Plzeňská Street.

The old agricultural and horticultural village of Motol lies in the valley of the Motol stream and has preserved its character in the old section to this day. The heart of the village can be found around the Motol chateau on Za Opatrovnou Street, near the Starý pivovar restaurant and the Maltézský mill. Around the original village, meadows developed in the 19th century, producing a garage, a golf hotel, Motol Hospital, and a small housing estate Na Homolce.

Jinonice is predominantly a villa neighborhood. Due to the surrounding hills, such as nearby Vidoule and Děvín, there was no suitable area for large residential complexes. Most residents were still working their own lands in the 19th century or at the Schwarzenberg estate. The atmosphere of old Jinonice can be captured near the Jinonický Dvorek, by the castle that belonged to the previously mentioned Schwarzenbergs, or at the agricultural estate Jinonická usedlost. All these structures are located near Jinonický Pond, and the surrounding areas along Karlštejnská Street, Na Vidouli, Za Zámečkem, and U Panské zahrady.

Prague XVIII – Břevnov, Střešovice, and Liboc

Břevnov is one of Prague’s oldest neighborhoods, noted in written records as early as 993 with the founding of the Benedictine monastery. In addition to the monastery, the district boasts other notable buildings or complexes — such as the former agricultural estates of Ladronka, Kajetánka, Šlajferka, Spiritka, Petynka, Hybšmanka, Kneislovka, or Liborka. Some have been newly reconstructed, others are in ruins, or only their names remain in the street titles. A large villa district from the First Republic can be found in the western part of Břevnov, between Bělohorská and Tomanova streets. In the 20th century, insensitive construction of panel settlements replaced the original Břevnov settlement. Originally, these apartments were intended for members of the Ministry of Defense, which is why they were nicknamed “Baton.” It is noteworthy that most of the construction work involved prisoners. Regardless, beautiful parts of the original village can still be found. Many original houses stand along Bělohorská, Říčanova, Šafránka, or Královka. The preserved village buildings in the former settlement of Tejnka are also a protected cultural heritage.

Another unique district is the old Střešovice by Sibeliova Street. Here, you can stroll through the municipal conservation area that was declared in 2003, protecting the old workers’ houses, the Church of St. Norbert, and Müller’s villa. The charming village conservation area of Střešovičky, on Ve Střešovičkách Street, is a former workers’ colony with small houses firmly attached to the sandstone cliffs. This area is one of the most well-preserved village complexes in Prague. You’ll discover delightful nooks in Starostřešovická and Pod Bateriemi streets.

For many native Prague residents, the Liboc district is an unfamiliar name. Nevertheless, it is a lovely corner of the capital: Lower Liboc hides the original ancient village, while Upper Liboc is home to splendid suburban neo-Renaissance villas. There are also large green areas in Liboc, including the Hvězda Game Preserve and much of Divoká Šárka (the entire rocky gorge of Džbán, including a swimming pool and the Dívčí skok restaurant that extends beyond Čertův Mlýn).

Prague XIX – Dejvice, Bubeneč, Sedlec, Vokovice, and Veleslavín

The last district, number 19 of Greater Prague, includes areas that are now part of Prague 6. The showcase of this district is Dejvice and the villa area of Bubeneč. Dejvice is still a luxurious neighborhood with impressive buildings that house universities, army establishments, charming villas, and the residences of numerous embassies. Among all, Hanspaulka and the villa district of Baba, surrounded by the greenery of Horní Šárka and Podbaby, stand out. The park Stromovka serves as a center for relaxation and sports. When Dejvice were incorporated into Prague, they were a small town with just a few houses, where generous urban plans of architect Antonín Engel came to fruition. A vibrant apartment neighborhood has formed around Vítězné náměstí, and charming spots can be found on the streets Dejvická, Kafkova, Eliášova, Národní obrany, Uralská, and Verdunská. In 1993, Dejvice and Bubeneč were declared a municipal conservation area. You can find various architectural styles here, ranging from apartment buildings from the 1920s and 1930s to villas and urban houses in numerous styles (like neo-Renaissance, classicism, functionalism, and Art Nouveau).

In Bubeneč, the first luxury villa district in Prague was established in the early 20th century, where many renowned personalities resided, and today it’s home to numerous diplomats. The core of old Bubeneč remains near Wolkerova Street, Gothardské, and Krupkova náměstí. This includes structures like the Church of St. Gotthard, the former town hall, the ancient tavern on Slamník, the governor’s summer lodge, and many original houses. Luxury embassy villas can be found at Sibiřské náměstí, Na Zátorce, Na Marně, in Korunovační Street, Pelléova, and elsewhere. Additionally, houses belonging to notable figures, such as Lanna villa, Suchardův, Pellé and Koul’s villa, and the villa of Otto Petschek, can be found here.

Meanwhile, the historic cores of Vokovice and Veleslavín have nearly disappeared. Both neighborhoods share a similar character – they emerged on a greenfield site, with villa-style buildings from the First Republic alongside socialist housing estates in Veleslavín, Petřiny, Vokovice, and Červený Vrch. In Vokovice, an interesting villa district from the First Republic is built in a semicircle – culminating in the aptly named Půlkruhová street. In the northern part of Vokovice, you’ll find part of the natural park Šárka.